Made in England on Channel 4

Michael Stoll and James Eden outside Cooper and Strollbrand.

A still from Channel 4's Made in England documentary. 

In recent seasons commentators and brands alike have taken a keen interest in how and where their clothes are made. There have been numerous labels launched on the 'Made in the...' wave of public intrigue and enthusiasm and I for one, welcome it. One of the most intriguing launches of the past twelve months was Private White V.C which we introduced to you all back in October. Now, you should remember from my previous post that the label comes from the very heart of Cooper and Stollbrand, the largest independent clothing manufacturer in the UK. This week, Channel 4's critically acclaimed First Cut strand always showcases the best in bold, bright and original documentaries by up-and-coming filmmakers turns its attention to clothing manufacturing in England and visits the renowned factory. To whet your appetite we are pleased to share a little more information about the documentary and include a selection of film still and factory shots.

To this day they sculpt and cut all their patterns by hand and still use exactly the same traditional techniques that were used in the 1960s and 1970s to cut, make and finish all of their garments.
A still from Channel 4's Made in England documentary.

Directed by Satnam Authi, Made In England, will doubt provide a unique insight into the clothing factory business in Salford. The documentary, to be aired on Friday at 7.30pm will provide a unique insight into the Salford based clothing factory business. Authi's visits Cooper and Stollbrand during the busy run-up to Christmas. Made in England takes an intimate look at the factory floor through the eyes of football-mad Jean and perfectionist Dot, who provide a vital link between management and the machinists as the business works towards completing orders in time for the festive rush.

A selection of the one hundred plus workforce in action.

A still from Channel 4's Made in England documentary.

There was a time when Lancashire was at the heart of the world’s outerwear industry. Now, the factory is one of the last bastions of the clothing manufacturing industry in the UK. Private White V.C serves as a reminder that they have and hopefully will always continue to make fantastic, market leading garments using the finest British materials and craftsmen. Cooper and Stollbrand has been producing, developing and designing for over seventy years from their factory in Salford. The company boasts a team of close to one hundred staff where they hand craft all of their patterns and manufacture their garments to be sold across the globe. The factory was taken over just over three years ago when James Eden left his lucrative job in the City to buy a stake in the business which was originally founded by his Great Grandfather, and World War One Victoria Cross winner, Jack White. Since taking over, Eden has dragged the factory out of the doldrums and into the twenty first century, developing a business that produces garments for high street retailers, premium designers and the factory's own label called Private White V.C. in celebration of both the war heroics and the garment making legacy left by his Great Grandfather on the region. 

The cutting room.

Now, I know that I will enjoy this documentary. One of my own personal highlights of blogging has been the opportunity to visit different workshops around the country to learn what can be made and the possibilities that still exist. Earlier this year I watched a pair of Dr Martens pass through the conveyor belt of skilled craftsmen at their Wollaston factory from moulding to the application of the Air Sole. Another post involved a trip up to the Cheaney factory in Desborough. For me, Cheaney represent the height of English Bench Made shoe making. It takes eight weeks to make a pair of Cheaney shoes, it involves around one hundred and sixty hand operations, from cutting the leather through to finishing, combining the best of contemporary design with superb quality. 

One of the machines in the factory.

It is always an absolute pleasure observing craftsmen at work. Long may these traditions continue and be supported. There should be a universal desire to make everything as well as possible. We should approach 'Made In England' knowing that there is a long history and tradition of producing certain products extremely well, for example jewellery, textiles, tailoring and shoes. Of course British manufacturing is much, much, smaller than in years gone by, there are always difficulties and some traditions or techniques have unfortunately disappeared. Of course it would be easier to produce things more quickly in other countries, but sometimes it is about establishing relationships too and keeping traditions alive where possible.

The pattern for one of the label's jackets.

Made in England airs on Channel 4 at 7.30pm on Friday 18th February and will be available on 4OD soon after.

b Store loves Liberty

Both of us at Style Salvage have a soft spot for this particular homely department store and the fabric it is famous for. In 1875 Sir Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened his first shop on Regent Street with merely three employees, where he sold ornaments, fabrics, antiques and artifacts from Japan and the Far East. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and iconic Liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Its clientele was exotic and included famous members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Proust bought his ties there and Gilbert and Sullivan dressed their casts in its fabrics. Liberty soon become famous for its prints and textiles and by the 20th century Liberty fabrics were used by great designers like Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Jean Muir and Paul Smith to name but a few.

Designers have always been inspired by Liberty's ever growing archive of prints. Last year alone, the venerable department store launched a number of interesting collaborations, from affordable florals at Target to shoes by Repetto, Nike Dunks adorned with florals and luggage by Merci. With an archive that is one hundred and thirty five years old, there is plenty to excite and inspire. The latest to be inspired is b store. In an exciting collaboration, the design and textile forces behind two of our favourite stores have combined to create a truly covetable capsule collection that celebrates some of the finest prints on offer, including the much loved pepper print. Having recently breathed fresh life in to heritage label, Baracuta in a range of Harringtons and trousers, now b store have reimagined the use of florals in menswear. Here, while showcasing the Jason Hughes styled and Laurence Ellis shot look book, we talk to b store's very own Matthew Murphy to learn about his love of Liberty, discuss the retail landscape in the capital and find out how the Savile Row store will blow out ten candles in a series of events throughout the year...

SS: How did this collaboration with Liberty arise and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

Matthew Murphy: The project stemmed from our relationship with Stephen Ayres, Liberty's Menswear Buying Director. We have known Stephen since he worked at Selfridges and when he moved to Liberty he asked us whether we could work together on a project. As the store is in close vicinity with ours and with us working with Selfrigdes and our projects with Dover Street Market, central London is pretty covered in terms of stockists but we still wanted to create something together. We have always loved the heritage of Liberty fabrics and we can up with the idea of working on a capsule collection using these great fabrics. b store loves Liberty. It is not really a collaboration as such because of course, anyone can buy the fabrics wholesale but we wanted a special celebration of these great fabrics. We put the collection together and showed Stephen and he loved it. Initially, Liberty were going to stock it exclusively alongside us, but to get it manufactured we decided to do a bit more and the reaction internationally has been phenomenal. A number of stores that we have been working tentatively with were extremely positive. This season, with the collaborations with both Baracuta and Liberty, it feels decidedly British and the buying reaction has been great.

SS: Were the two collaborations strategically planned together or did they fall in to place?

Matthew Murphy: Ever since we started, the international opinion of b store has always been that we are a very London brand and people have always talked about it being very British. So, we planned that if we were going to collaborate we would work with British brands or brands that could really add something. Baracuta was a great one because we always found outerwear and casual jackets a difficult thing for us, we do shirts and trousers extremely well but tented to struggle with jackets. The stuff that they did with Watanabe and Margaret Howell was quite relevant to what we wanted to do so that came first. Then the Liberty opportunity arose and then everything just fell in to place. For future collaborations, we will continue down this route, find people will add to the complete look of the brand. We don't necessarily want to become a lifestyle as such but the aim is to offer a complete look. We obviously already do shoes and more recently accessories with Kuni (Awai), but it would be good to work on areas that we are not so prolific in and collaborate with specialists not so much in a craft way but, working with people on their signature items. I quite like the idea of working with brands that have become old, stuffy or slightly naff and tweaking them for the modern market.

SS: The archive of Liberty prints must be huge. What was starting point?

Matthew Murphy: We wanted a floral first and foremost because we were feeling that for the collection anyway which is why this always felt like a natural collaboration as they are known for their floral prints. Originally, we wanted to use some of the archive and heritage prints but it just wasn't possible in this instance. The archive prints are almost under lock and key, there are licensing agreements and cost issues so it is lengthy process. For the purposes of this happen, we wanted to make it as simple as possible but still used some amazing prints. It was the late sixties and early seventies prints that really inspired us. For example, the pepper print was designed in 1974/5 so there is still some history to them.

SS: This was a particularly iconic era for floral prints...

Matthew Murphy: Completely. Back then, what is great about them is that there is an obvious femininity there but when you put it in a shirt they feel masculine. There is such a soft feel to Liberty. As a store, it has always been my favourite department store in London. It was almost an introduction to menswear, back when I could first afford to designer clothes the menswear floor at Liberty was phenomenal. Back then they had a impressive Margaret Howell corner, a Westwood area, they had Dries (Van Noten), they were the first store to have Margiela. Fast forward to today and they have found a great niche. I think Stephen has a clear vision of what he wants the current menswear floor to be and it fits with our brand.

SS: You've had the pleasure of working alongside some of the great retail institutions of the capital...

Matthew Murphy: London is still one of the best shopping cities in the world. There might be more interesting things going on in other cities but if you want a selection then London is still the city. I'm all for teaming up and we've been fortunate to work with some great stores for example with Shop at Bluebird, with Selfridges, Dover Street Market and now Liberty. Each of the stores have strong identities and we've worked with all of them in different ways. It is amazing to think that our brand can do that, maybe the appeal is that it can fit so many different demographics and consumers. Originally, we thought that the work with Liberty would be a one off but after the success of it we began to think about working with the fabric in new ways and there is just so much creative opportunity. It can be subtle, as well as bold. For example, for SS12 we are already looking in to overdying fabrics. Then there are some bold geometric patterns from the 70s that remind me of early 90s Prada and that feels right at the moment as well. It is a great opportunity .

SS: What can you tell us about the planned launch?

Matthew Murphy: We are going to have a corner in Liberty's, put up the images and cover the walls in the pepper print. We are also going to open a pop up store in Printemps in Paris in May. Through doing this project, it has opened up opportunities. There are a million collaborations out there but if they are relevant then they work.

SS: I understand that 2011 is a big year for b store...

Matthew Murphy: It certainly is. We are ten in August and we have so many projects planned for the year to celebrate. Everything that we've planned is going under the umbrella of celebrating the store with different people, so Liberty, a roadshow with Selfridges which is pop up shop that begins in Manchester and goes to Birmingham before ending up in London, Printemps and we are working with Mr Porter online. We are also going to launch ten British products. We've approached ten British brands in categories that we are not currently involved in and these include lifestyle and fashion brands, some well known and a few which are less so. Actually there is one brand that I know you'll love, a new tie brand called Marwood. One of the key things that she does is using British lace on top of either silks or cottons to create ties and bow ties. It is beautiful. We are working with her for Spring/Summer in store but she is also going to be one of the ten. These types of projects are great because as well as keeping us creatively inspired, they are a great platform for discovering new brands and pushing them forward.

SS: In a sense, it is fitting celebration and it mirrors the core values of the b store ethos…

Matthew Murphy: Completely. It might be a bit less relevant or for difficult for us now in terms of menswear because our customers want a bit more consistency. For example, we have worked with Peter Jensen since the very beginning and we have customers who come to buy his designs, same with Stephan (Schneider) and now with Christophe (Lemaire). It is hard for us to introduce new menswear brands because there is no one we could nor would want to drop. Unfortunately we are governed by space and the fact that seventy per cent of our menswear is our own brand. This high percentage is not down to us pushing it but is down to the demand. So what we buy from these other bands is items that we wouldn't do necessarily ourselves by still feel very us, the understated luxury of Christophe or the geekyness of Peter. With these boxes filled it is difficult to bring on new labels. With regard to womenswear we have more freedom. This is why the Ten Products project is great because it allows us to bring in new names for product lines that we do not already sell.

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As the chaps celebrate their tenth anniversary in a style, you can expect to hear a lot more about b Store on the pages of this blog and beyond in the coming months. In the meantime, lets long for some sunshine and daydream about floral prints before the fruits of this collaboration hit stores next week.  

Collections... Shoes

"I have just caught the shoe bug and would love to see a cross section of your collection Steve. Would make a great post..."

Anonymous Reader

What follows is a direct result of the above anonymous comment received on our Style Stalking feature and an enthusiastic nudge administered by EJ. The shoe bug is indeed contagious and I could not shirk the opportunity to unveil my collection. Now, as you all know, the ever changing pursuit of building the perfect wardrobe is a lifelong one so here is a snapshot of my present collection. The much appreciated art of wardrobe building is not a fast or haphazard activity: instead it is developed and nurtured over time. Of course there will be the odd irrational purchase or taste questioning gift but over time these items will be forgotten and you'll be left with a true indication of your style at a given time.

In recent years, I have attempted to focus my attention on one specific area of need at a time. The last eighteen months have seen me refine, edit, purchase and lay the foundations of a shoe collection fit for my tastes of today, and hopefully tomorrow. This period began with an acknowledgment that it was time to bid a fond farewell to eight pairs of pavement abused and gig sullied Converse All Stars and a plethora of well loved Adidas trainers. Following this difficult period of trainer cleansing (of course the odd, well preserved favourite was kept), I began investing in footwear that my feet craved. The collection, once reduced to its bare essentials, has slowly but surely grown to its current level of seventeen well loved pairs. This weekend I decided to take a snapshot of the current collection and highlight a few of my favourites...

The current line-up in full

Varying heights and styles...

From Boots to brogues to lace ups to trainers to high tops...

A few trainers remain alongside a couple of new pairs.

Now, having offered the requested cross section of my shoe collection I could not resist offering a closer look at a few favourites. What follows are descriptions of seven of my well loved and well worn pairs. I've always loved the idea of a man's wardrobe providing an eloquent narrative of his life less ordinary. Here's what my shoes have to say...

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The shoes that...are always on my feet...

Kudu boots by Lodger worn with suit trousers by Reiss.

After interviewing Lodger's Nathan Brown back in September 2009 my imagination was overwhelmed following his description of his September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot. From this moment on I day dreamed about them gracing my feet during the upcoming winter months and beyond. Having bought them, the reality was just as good. I feel as passionately about them now as I did then. The boot is an eight eyelet brogue style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. The craftsman in Northampton created something truly beautiful out of that antique African antelope hide and I feel special every time they grace my feet.

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The shoes that...are the newest...

Lanvin Hi Tops worn with socks from Uniqlo and trousers by Tim Soar.

You might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever in a pair on Lanvin hi tops. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up thanks to a wool and leather combination for AW10. She opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops as an early Christmas present. Since then, these texture rich trainers have been worn countless times.

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The shoes that...receive more longing looks than any other

Orwell Stingray by Mr Hare worn with socks by Topman and trousers by b Store.

Mr. Hare's passion for fine shoes is infectious and for all to see over on his blog but it is even more apparent in his designs. For me, there is one particular shoe that made me look at footwear differently. The Orwell Stingray is an apron Derby shoe in patent leather with stingray built on a Blake construction. “When you absolutely, positively got to kill every motherfucker in the room. Accept no substitutes.” This sentence uttered by Ordell Robbie in ‘Jackie Brown’ was the only sentence that came into Mr Hare's head every time he looked at the Orwell and I can certainly see why. He declared that the "Orwell is an apron derby that has all the attitude of 60s Kray run London and the joie de vivre of Sammy Davis Jnr. I just received the Stingray version which is sick." After wearing them for eighteen months, my feet always feel as though they a ready to dance around town in a bygone era. They set the shoe bar ridiculously high.

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The shoes that...I saw being made...

Mentor Brogues by Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis worn with socks from Marks & Spencer and trousers by Tim Soar.

Back in September, I was invited to watch the Cheaney craftsmen at work at their Desborough factory, to learn more about one of England's master shoemakers and see the fruits of their collaboration with Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis. I eagerly followed and snapped away at each well honed and practiced process from start to finish in the factory that has been their home for well over two hundred years. It was a pleasure to be able to watch each stage unfold in a space that has seen the same processes come together for over two centuries. It is little wonder why Joe Casely-Hayford partnered with them once more. After the deserved success of last season’s Pukk brogues (they had this blogger's heart skipping a few beats), Casely-Hayford has taken the much appreciated design concept a step further. During my time at the factory I was able to see firsthand snapshots of the creation process for the latest Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis, Cheaney brogue; the Mentor. I was fortunate enough to view the finishing touches being applied to one of the final dozen due to be dispatched to John Lewis. A few weeks later and I received my own pair.

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The shoes that...are as comfortable as slippers...

Harris Tweed Desert Boots by Clarks worn with socks and trousers by Uniqlo.

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Desert Boot, Clarks Originals created six unique new designs (three for women and three for men). It still amazed me that these stylish staples were first invented in a Burmese military outpost by a young Nathan Clark. The original boots inspiration is a crepe soled boot made from rough, suede in Cairo's fabled Old Bazaar and it was soon the off-duty English Army officers footwear of choice. There are of course a plethora of different desert boots out there made by all sorts of names but why deviate from the original? To mark the anniversary Clarks Originals created a look inspired by each of the six decades that the Desert Boot has spent as an essential fashion item. As soon as the anniversary boots were released back in September my head was turned by the Harris Tweed, 1950's pair and they have provided me with comfort ever since.

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The shoes that...remind me that I'm in the PDG...

Flocked Polka Dot shoes by Dr Martens worn with socks by Sock Mate and trousers by Omar Kashoura.

As one of the founding members of the Polka Dot Gang (EJ is the other) these shoes make me incredibly happy. In addition to adding much needed colour to my ever expanding shoe collection, they also add a sense of fun. While excitedly poring over Dr Martens AW10 models I fell head over welted soled heels for a pair of purple polka dot lace ups but unfortunately for me they were one of the jewels of the women's line. The product team at Dr Martens are also huge fans of polka dots and have been experimenting with flocking techniques for some time. The result is something quite special. Made all the more special because they are (currently) entirely unique. You might think that I'm wearing a girls shoe in a larger size but you'd be wrong. Instead of using the women's DML comfort last the Dr Martens team made my shoes on the 84 last. The 84 is unisex and is much narrower and has a slightly more pointed toe. Every time I look at the flocked polka dots I will let out a wry smile and will remember just how special they are...

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The shoes that...feel like a holiday...

Striped Oxford by Lodger worn with socks by Happy Socks and gingham trousers by b Store

Back in July 2009 my head was turned by yet another offering from Lodger's all too tempting shoe of the month unveiling. The breathtaking Striped Oxford was duly added to my shoe list and after saving the required pennies, I decided to invest in a pair. Inspired by the Duke of Windsor (undoubtedly one of the best dressed men of all time) the design is an interesting blend of fine Scabal striped linen and burnished French calf. It is this combination which makes it a great addition to the shoe pile for the warmer months. All in all, these have made for a fine investment. Now, I just long to find more sunshine at home and abroad.

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The piles of footwear choices strewn throughout my flat are a constant reminder (Susie calls them a nuisance but she really can't talk!) of my fondness of footwear but I have to confess that I've never really considered myself as a shoeist in the same vein as Mr. Hare or Queen Imelda. No doubt my collection will grow and I'll update you as and when it does...

Let it rain on Mount Street

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Thankfully, in 1823, Charles Macintosh developed the process of spreading rubber onto cotton to create the worldʼs first formal waterproof fabric, signaling the arrival of the original Mackintosh coat. Since then it has dedicated itself to keep the world stylishly dry. Today, Mackintosh is a firmly established brand with an almost cult status, especially in the Japanese market. Recognised for its unique hand made authenticity, the great British label produce outerwear for a diverse range of clients in Paris, Milan and Tokyo; including high profile luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Dior, YSL and fashion designers Erdem, Junya Watanabe and Nigel Cabourn to name but a meaty mouthful.  

Thankfully, the brand resisted temptation from Japan and has opted to open its maiden store in the aptly, drizzly British capital.  The fabulously located Mount Street store officially opens its doors this evening but I was extremely fortunate to have Daniel Dunko, UK managing director of Mackintosh Ltd, as my store guide and brand enlightener earlier this afternoon.

I could not have had a better guide to talk me through the beautiful two story space than Mackintosh's very own Daniel Dunko. As he talked me through the latest designs, I was amazed to learn that he began his working life with Mackintosh as an apprentice on the factory floor back in 1983 and has since worked his way up to the position he hold now. He has worked for Mackintosh for twenty eight years come May. Following the three year apprenticeship he then served on the Cumbernauld floor for two years before embarking on a sales and marketing position at the company, then a directorship in 1996 and he never looked back. It was an absolute pleasure to hear about Dunko's experiences right from the craftsmanship of the factory floor to buyouts and investments. Unsurprisingly, he was hugely excited by the latest development in his brand's rich history. It was contagious.  

104 Mount Street is Mackintosh's flagship store. Prior to that they have enjoyed a strong concession presence, particularly in Japan and the rest of Asia but the brand began to put the plans together for their own space two years ago. Thankfully they only had their sights on London. Previously, the only retail presence they had in the capital was a shared store with Globetrotter located in Burlington Arcade which was forced to close following changes of ownership. Soon after they decided that they needed their own flagship store and, as they are a relatively niche brand, Mayfair and Mount Street were the perfect fit.

World famous interior designers and architects Wonderwall created the two floor, 90sqm state-of-the-art store and key features include an interior in tune with the modern Mackintosh brand and is truly inspired by its British craftsmanship. The design sought to showcase the brand's rich history, fruitful archives and latest ranges in a welcoming consumer friendly environment. For me, the design highlight has to be the three display cases showing iconic pieces from the Mackintosh's history. Since its inception, the brand has always been at the forefront of outerwear design and these display cases are a welcome reminded. From the Army coat from the 1930s which was a very heavy, rubberised bonded twill, to the a Dispatch Riders coat worn in the second World War to help deliver on deliver messages to the troops via motorcycles on the front line, on to to the British Rail days and outfitting rail staff in the 70s.

Mackintosh is undoubtedly a brand of modern heritage built on true craftsmanship and a two hundred year history. If you were in any doubt, the Mount Street store gently reminds you at every turn, from  the encased vintage pieces to the feel of their latest garments which hang invitingly on hooks and rails. Every genuine Mackintosh garment is carefully hand made by skilled craftsmen who serve a three-year apprenticeship to perfect the techniques required to make a true mackintosh. With its factory in Cumbernauld, Scotland focused on hand made outerwear, Mackintosh also owns a second factory in Nelson, England producing the machine made side of its collections. The brand have sixty people in the Lancashire factory and about sixty seven in the factory in Scotland. Production wise it is similarly equally split. The Scottish factory creates all of he handmade pieces, and the factory in England concentrates on the machine work with cashmeres, wools, gabardines. I was amazed to learn that the label produce around thirty five thousand garments apiece at these pillars of British manufacturing.

In terms of design, the brand's archive pieces are hugely important and the teams in both Glasgow and Japan continue to rework, renew and reinvigorate items of yesteryear for the future generation of Mackintosh wearers. The archive is approximately five hundred pieces strong, many of which are the results of collaborations, from catwalk piece for Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons to Yohji Yamaoto and shortly the fruits of the design partnership with Kitsune. Having had my interest in the latest collaboration piqued after the Voyageur collection received a fair amount of blog coverage in the run up Christmas, this was the first opportunity I had to see it in the cloth and I was not left disappointed.  This is a happy marriage of two like minded brands, one from a manufacturing background and one from a design perspective combining to create truly covetable outerwear. Fittingly, I was particularly taken with the London. Stunning.

The unveiling of this impressive store, coupled with the brand’s British heritage and modern cuts, truly confirms the resurgence of the brand. Mackintosh will never forget that the rubberised coat was one of the most creative and revolutionary innovations that changed the lives of so many during that era.  However, most interestingly the brand keeps evolving and offering timeless contemporay collections. Mackintosh is the original British rainwear brand, long may it continue. Let it rain.

(Pleased with myself as I managed to make it through to the end of the post without bursting in to Mark Morrisons' classic)

Sunspel blows out one hundred and fifty candles

Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. This national institution has been making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. All of Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. Throughout their history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. With the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street, 2010 has undoubtedly been a great year.  

To help them blow out one hundred and fifty candles, they have invited several leading lights from the world of design to dig deep into their archives and offer a fresh interpretation of a few of their much loved staples. Jean Touitou, the creative brains behind A.P.C has designed a classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 while the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.  Much loved Aussie skincare brand Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas. Local esteemed tailor Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polos that Sean Connery wore in the sixties whilst playing 007. Derek Harris, of Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee, designed to be worn under, you guessed it, motorcycle leathers...

A.P.C  designed classic boxer using the silhouette of a short released by Sunspel in 1940 whilst the fabric is taken from excess material from an A.P.C. shirt.

Timothy Everest has resurrected the short-sleeved polo.

Aesop’s Dennis Paphitis have created a covetable pair of pyjamas.

Lewis Leather presents a thicker than average cotton tee.

All in all this is celebratory capsule collection that I'll happily raise my glass to for now and hopefully get my hands on at the end of the year. Here's to Sunspel.

Advent - Day Fourteen

So, here we are, day fourteen of our Advent calendar and I am full of cold. Despite my incessant sniffles and grumbles, the show must go on. Today we feature the commercial desires of one of the most active men in the industry, Steve Monaghan. Sane Communications is an agency for a selection of some of the finest fashion and lifestyle brands and covetable products on the market. His client list reads like a who's who of menswear and includes oi polloi, Lavenham, Bedouin, Happy Socks and Penfield to name just a few. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DARK HORN HANDLE WALKING STICK


"A walking cane and a field spaniel. The field spaniel would be called Murdoch X and the cane would come from here."

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British Remains Series Two

Now, you might think it a tad odd to write about a line of t shirts in the midst of one of the coldest months of December that I can remember but I just couldn't resist turning my attention to the second drop from British Remains. You might recall back in (oh so warm) July that I introduced the label after one particular design caught my eye and captured my imagination. As they could not find any decent printed t shirts for themselves, Andrew Bunney and Daryl Saunders took matters in to their own creative hands. The duo have talked for many years about the things they like, hate and mourn about the nation and British Remains will explore some of those feelings.

The second series, just like the first, is a tightly edited offering, with each item encapsulating  precisely what the label is all about. As the debut offering  gave the printed cotton treatment to London brickwork, toilet signage and Generation X, the sophomore series  celebrates facets of Britain and localised symbols that would ordinarily not be known outside of these shores. This time the pair highlight a prison constructed completely using convict labour in 1874 and later the sight of a rooftop protest over visiting rights staged by IRA prisoners, celebrate the life of Robert Fraser and offer a selection of treasures... 

LOOT! What a bounty...a few of the disputed treasures include the Rosetta Stone, Elgin Marbles, Koh-i-Noor and Sultanganj Buddha. 

Wish you were here... HMP Wormwood Prison has certainly had a colourful past and just last year was listed as a Grade II building, principally because of its distinctive gatehouse as depicted on the shirt. 

Robert Fraser. Fraser was a noted London art dealer and gallerist during the swinging sixties and beyond. Paul McCartney described him as "one of the most influential people of the London Sixties scene." His exhibitions helped to launch and promote the work of many important new British and American artists including Peter Blake, Richard Hamilton, Gilbert and George, Andy Warhol, Ed Ruscha and later Jean-Michel Basquiat to name just a few.

The once challenging, political, humourous, marginalised printed tees of old have seemingly lost their way no thanks to the mass produced varieties hanging on rails across high streets near and far. Bunney and Saunders wanted to reignite a printed passion and they certainly have with this blogger.

Advent - Day Eight

We have long admired the snapshots of style that Tommy Ton captures for his own site Jak & Jil and those for GQ. Tommy's images are at times breathtaking and frequently more inspiring than the happenings of any catwalk. His roving eye scans and focuses on the details that are often overlooked but are in fact so very important. Tommy can zoom in on a contrasting cuff, tailoring quirk, novel print combination and sartorial scenes from one hundred paces. He undoudtedly has the eye. With this in mind we just had to ask him to reveal the one item he hopes to unwrap this year and he plumped for a beautiful pair of Northampton crafted boots...

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TRICKER"S MALTON BROGUE BOOTS

Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole

"For Christmas, I'd love to receive a pair of Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole. It's funny how long I've wanted a pair but yet I haven't had any time while visiting London to go to the Tricker's shop. My time is always occupied by fashion week and rather than ordering a pair online, I'd like to properly get fitted and fully experience the Tricker's experience. Ideally, I'd love to customize a pair but I also really love the Vibram wedge sole on the pairs they collaborate with Present London. Brogue boots are a classic staple in my wardrobe and to receive a pair would be the ultimate Christmas gift."

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A Visit to Trunk Clothiers

Britain used to be described as 'a nation of shopkeepers.' Whether it was the eighteenth century economist Adam Smith or Napoleon who described this group of islands as such matters little, what does matter is that this nation has lost its retail heart. I can honestly count the number of exciting London stores on one hand. However, the future has begun to look a little bright with the opening of a number of intriguing properties. The recently unveiled Trunk Clothiers had led me to outstretch one more finger. Located over two floors on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street, Trunk introduces a much needed new style to the menswear retailing scene in the capital which I was able to experience for myself earlier today. The seventy square metres brings together a carefully curated selection of the finest menswear and accessories from across the globe. Trunk is a store that sets the standard for gentlemen seeking modern classics of the highest quality matched with impeccable service.

The handsome and inviting exterior.

As the name suggests, Trunk is a compact, well organized and highly edited mix of carefully selected, hand crafted garments from around the world. Trunk stocks labels from Japan, Italy, Sweden, US, Canada and France, that in most cases have not been available in the UK market before. Well respected brands such as Beams+, Aspesi, Montedoro, Barena, Zanone and J Crew all, quite surprisingly, make their London debut with the store. The store offers suits, knitwear, accessories, shoes, hats, eyewear, watches, hoisery, underwear, fragrances and will soon launch a made to measure suit shirt service. Additionally, the space offers special collaborations with two of Japan's finest, in Tabio and Porter. The store reads like Tyler Brule's (and mine) dream shopping list.

The carefully curated space.

Formally a senior manager in global partnerships at American Express, Klingberg,has fused his background in fashion, retail and financial services to engage with brands that are united in their passion for quality and detail. Convincing smaller brands, such as Stealth Wealth of Kyoto, to take a risk overseas has been one of the challenges he believes will make Trunk unlike any other shop in Britain. A number of the brands had been interested in the UK market but hadn't found the right store to work, until now at least. For example, Boglioli, an Italian brand has been looking for the right environment for a number of years but there just was not an opportunity for them. Klinsberg noticed a clear gap in the market and has thankfully taken advantage. Trunk's model is simple, to stock great Italian, Japanese, Swedish and American brands that already have a strong following among London residents, but frustratingly for them could only be found abroad. Now, I could wax lyrical about the store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it. The store affords discoveries at every turn and below are a few of the items that caught my eye...

Boots by Common Projects, belt by Ki:ts, bag by BAG'n'NOUN and scarves by Drakes. Ki:ts is a Japanese brand that is now based in London, all of the belts are made by hand and each is stunning.

Italy’s Glanshirt has crafted fine men's and women's wear since the 1960’s. Recently they joined the brand family over at Slowear joining the ranks of Incotex and Zanone to name two.

Headwear by Wigens, the one on the right is the product of a collaboration with Harris Tweed. Wigens is a brand that you might encounter in an old gentleman's store in Sweden but Klinsberg discovered it in Iseten in Japan.

The store is full of seemingly unpronounceable brand names, the producer of this super soft scarf being a case in point, LA+H, hailing from Japan.

In addition to offering a plethora of new discoveries, the store is also home to a few old favourites. Here are two examples, socks by Tabio and knitted ties by Drakes.

Handkerchiefs by Drakes.

An eye popping tote from Bag’n’Noun crammed full of scarves by Drakes. The Bag’n’Noun products from Takeshi Ozawa are all handmade in a small factory in Osaka and this is the first European store to stock them.

Boots by Lodger.

A closer look at those boots by Common Projects.

Friendly characters. Trunk's warm palettes of greys, light wood floors and original fireplaces create an inviting environment that faintly echoing Klingberg’s Swedish heritage.

Trunk is a shop for men who like to look sharp, in all settings. Whether its crisp bespoke shirts, tailored blazers, elegant knitwear or smart footwear. At the same time the space delivers a great experience in a warm, welcoming environment which is dedicated to making shopping both simple and enjoyable. Trunk affords discoveries at every turn, in each nook and cranny is a label that I had never seen before but soon fell in love with. The pieces stocked here are the one’s that Klinsberg has unearthed, the ones he shops for in Europe and Tokyo and the ones he wears himself. His passion for finely crafted menswear is infectious and I for one, look forward to my next visit, where I'll no doubt encounter a few more of my 'new favourite' brands.

In one of his insightful rants, Tyler Brûlé mentioned how Japan's lost decade was the catalyst for the rise of a new super talented merchant class that kept the retail scene buoyant despite the dire state of the economy. I hoped that the recent troubling economic times would bring about a new breed of shop keepers and Mats Klinsberg is undoubtedly one of them. Here's hoping that Britain could one day be crowned a nation of menswear shopkeepers.