Details: Backing the Backpack

Jason Dike and his canvas and leather backpack by Jas MB. Worn here, with his recently GQ featured, quilted field blazer by Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis

Collections: The Dandy Project's Jewels

Everyone's obsessed with something and our Collections series will highlight a few of our favourites. The original post celebrated Steve's collection of shoes. The rest of the series will expose other people's obsessions.

It didn't take too long for us to decide that The Dandy Project would be the perfect candidate to continue the feature. Izzy's knowledge, enthusiasm and passion for clothes and accessories is apparent in all of his posts. After viewing our recent post on the Bunney studs and reading our (well Steve's) slight hesitation towards wearing anything particularly ostentatious, Izzy opted to showcase his own impressively eclectic collection. Below is an introduction from the man himself followed by plenty of shots of his collection in full and a closer look at a few of his favourites...

Jewellery does not make a man. One will not freeze to death or get shards of glass in his foot if he steps out of the house un-bejeweled. But I think that when a piece of jewelry has a certain element of intrigue, it does wonders at bringing out one's character. When I brought out all my baubles for this shoot for Style Salvage, I shocked myself with the sheer volume of jewellery I had amassed within the past few years. But when I looked at the collection piece by piece, I remembered how each one had an interesting back story to it, and I knew that my treasure chest, though bursting at the seams, was one to keep for at least a little while more.

An overview of the collection in full

Collection - pins
(clockwise from far left) vintage silver turtle from the 80s, beer bottle pin from the Heineken Brewery in Amsterdam, vintage athletic medals, vintage chewing gum badges from the Brooklyn flea, Husam El-Odeh for Topman climbing man pin, vintage green alabaster cabochon pin, heart print pin under resin cabochon from Old Hollywood (http://oldhollywoodmoxie.com/), vintage sterling silver astronaut pin with moonstone head, vintage hairdresser pin from Amsterdam

Collection - bracelets

(clockwise from far left) leather bracelets from Hermes, Margiela "batman" cuff, vintage wide silver cuff from Amsterdam, narrow metal cuffs from Number (N)ine, Husam El-Odel for Topman, and Philip Crangi

Collection - Necklaces 1
Japanese kimono belts knotted into a necklace, belly-dancing belt from India, Ann Demeulemeester lambskin "thorns" necklace, necklace with feather from chicken I had for dinner, Margiela necklace with dice inside

Collection - necklaces 2
Red leather and silk tassel necklace by Filipino designer Proud Race, bead necklaces in white turquoise, opalite, and gray pearl from the gem market in Manila, DIY matchbox car necklace, zipper necklaces by Marc Jacobs

Collection - rings

Cross ring from my friend Kathleen, oxidized silver and recycled green stone ring by Norbu Bijoux in Brooklyn, red coral ring from Barcelona, vintage turquoise ring, and way too many others...

Collection - watches
Black rubber watch by Casio, calculator watches in silver and gold by Casio, Cartier Roadster watch, Rolex watch

Now, having offered the requested cross section of his jewels, Izzy could not resist offering a closer look at a few of his real treasures. What follows are his descriptions of seven of his well loved and well worn jewellery combinations.

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The ones from the earth and beyond...

Vintage sterling silver astronaut pin with moonstone head and silver turtle from the 80s on vintage Pierre Cardin overcoat with a Barbour furry liner layered over.

I think pins are a great way to get a man comfortable with jewelry: just stick them on a coat and you can forget they're there. The vintage spaceman pin was a lucky eBay find; what boy never dreamed of being an astronaut at one point? I like to wear it with the turtle to keep things down to earth.

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The ones that climb and that dangle...

Husam El-Odeh for Topman brooch, vintage salon brooch from Amsterdam on Muji tartan wool scarf with April 77 denim jacket

The climbing soldier pin might have to be my favorite out of my entire jewelry collection, and people seem to always be fascinated by this little silver man climbing up my lapel or hanging from the edge of a jacket pocket. The salon brooch is a vintage, with the middle dangler, a hair dryer, actually detached from the piece. It reminds me of my obsession with hair.

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The one least blingy...

Martin Margiela nail ring, tailor-made shirt and trousers

By far the subtlest out of my entire collection, I think it's one of the cleverest too. A lot of the jewelry men wear (chunky silver chains, plain band rings) can tend to be superfluous; they'd look better without them. But I think that when jewelry is intriguing enough to warrant a second look, it does wonders for one's persona.

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The one from my hometown and the one from my father...

Grey pearl necklace from Manila, Cartier watch. DIY jacket, Gap shirt, tailor-made trousers

Philippine pearls are prized the world over, but are most affordably priced in their city of origin. I decided to take a risk and don a strand of gray pearls; I thought the jacket was boldly eccentric enough to dispel any notions of "little boy trying on his mother's pearls". The watch was a gift from my father after getting good grades in college. The navy alligator strap is a special order, and is quite versatile despite it being strikingly luxe.

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The one that I made, well, sort of...

Silk kimono belts used as a necklace, worn with Ivan Grundahl jacket and H&M shirt

I purchased a vintage haori (which is the kimono equivalent of a tuxedo) at Kiteya in New York, and got three traditional silk belts to tie the haori closed. I ended up always wearing the kimono open anyway, and found myself wearing the belts as a necklace knotted loosely.

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The ones that are oriental...

Pave eagle head ring, vintage "traffic light" ring from the Brooklyn flea

I have an obsession with Orientalia; I think people wear too much Western clothing that they forget about the other half of the world. These rings, with the eagle, dragon, bright red and deep green stones, help evoke that feeling.

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The ones that are my favorites, old and new...

Badge by Barbour, vintage green alabaster cabochon pin, heart print pin under resin cabochon from Old Hollywood

The old favorite would have to be the one with the vintage heart print under a cabochon of clear resin; it's a crowd pleaser and it goes perfectly with that vintage-eccentric aesthetic I'm quite fond of. The new favorite is the oval cabochon of green alabaster: it's ever so faintly green, and isn't even polished, just roughly cut giving it that matte finish. I think it's enchantingly spare, and quite enigmatic.

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We are sure that you'll agree that The Dandy Project has quite the collection of well chosen trinkets, precious discoveries, investment eye catchers and successful DIY projects that are successfully used to embellish and add layers to his attire. It is the collections like this that really open our eyes to opportunities that have been previously unseen or overlooked. Perhaps you, like us, will be inspired to try out more and different types of jewellery in your everyday wear.

Style Stalking... Tommy

Our blog roll is constantly evolving as we discover new favourite reads and bid a fond farewell to the ones which are sadly no longer with us. This is Naive, thankfully, is one which has been an ever present fixture. As stated on the blog itself, Tommy lives in London and she likes the beautiful and the good things. Her pictures and the accompanying musings have been a constant source of jealousy and admiration for us and her eye for detail really cannot be overstated. On top of all of this, she is a really lovely person!

Although she definitely has a fondness for the feminine (her baskets and embroidered tops are testament to this), I'm sure Tommy wouldn't mind us saying that her dress sense often tends towards a more masculine style given her love for vintage garments with hints of military and workwear. For this seven day style diary, Tommy took up our challenge to wear mostly men's clothes for a week. Over the course of the resulting week, she estimates that menswear constitutes about seventy per cent menswear of her outfits and she has done it in a way that we're certain that our readers will find both interesting and inspirational. Regardless of gender, there is a great to take away from the below set of images. Without further ado, here it is...

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Day One
I have been in Paris for the last couple of days to see Hiroki Nakamura's Visvim presentation. Today is my final day, I just had a tarte au citron at Rose Bakery to remember Paris by.

Khadi & Co indigo scarf (its suggested use is a tablecloth), Thom Browne knit jumper, silk shirt from Yue Hwa department store in Singapore (it is made for Chinese granddads!), Edun trousers *, Vietnamese woven bag, Visvim hiker boots.

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Day Two

Back in London and there is nothing to eat at home! So I have just been to the Sunday farmers' market and supermarket to stock up. The denim jacket belongs to my partner, I grabbed it off the rail and was amused that the pin badges on it match my trousers.

Old Levi's denim jacket, Patagonia boys' fleece jacket, old Royal Navy knit jumper, Brooks Brothers boys' button-down shirt, Goodenough chinos, Goro's leather bag, Bunney sheepskin mittens, Visvim chukka boots, Moroccan woven basket, Inverallan knit hat.

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Day Three

Without a reliable photography assistant today but I found a helpful reflective surface in my neighborhood. I have just ferried a load of parcels to the post office.

See by Chloé knit scarf *, Inverallan knit cardigan, old French thermal top, 555 underwear t-shirt, Goodenough chinos, Lavenham quilted bag *, Tod's loafers, Moroccan woven basket.

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Day Four

Windy! Rushing home after some errands to complete tax returns, thrilling Tuesday! I normally wear my gloves in a pair, by the way.

Khadi & Co indigo scarf, old German coveralls, old leather gloves, Head Porter tote bag, Wm. J. Mills & Co. canvas bag, YMC socks (made by Scott-Nichol), Nike chukka boots.

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Day Five

Post-dinner at Andrew Edmunds in Soho with a visiting friend from Singapore. Freezing, just starting to rain, so we ducked into Liberty for cover. The coat, I know, is ridiculously big on me but it is precisely why I like it. Like playing dress-up when you are young in your father's coat!

Old French motorcycle coat, AFFA mohair knit jumper, Thom Browne for Moncler hat, unknown tartan scarf borrowed from partner's drawer, L'Etoile Isabel Marant trousers *, Head Porter tote bag, Vans Sk8-Hi sneakers (Undercover version from around 10 years ago).

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Day Six

Visiting my friend, Jaja, and coercing her cat, Quincy, for a picture. I'm sure you'll agree that a handsome animal makes the best accessory.

See by Chloé knit scarf *, old Soviet-era padded jacket, old English silk and cotton shirt, Ralph Lauren trousers *, Vans Sk8-Hi sneakers, Poilâne linen bag.

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Day Seven
Late night opening at Tate Modern, one of my favourite places to be on a Friday.

Old B3 sheepskin jacket, old English silk and cotton shirt, Bunney onyx studs (worn as buttons), old French cotton slip *, Poilâne linen bag, Hue leggings *, Nike boots *.

N.B. The starred items are womenswear.

Photography credits: Andrew, Jaja, Major Travel window, Liberty shoe department mirror.

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Doodling AW11

For the last week few weeks our brains have been overloaded with look book images, catwalk scenes and enthralled critical ramblings leaving us stylishly dazed. With a healthy portion of the AW11 season still left to parade itself to the eyes of the wanting world, we are in need of a break. Thankfully, the stunning artwork of Style Salvage favourite, Little Doodles, provides a welcome respite from the seemingly endless collection slideshows which currently dominate our online world. Having already illustrated two of her favourite looks from Milan, we approached the talented artist to reimagine our own early highlights of the season to accompany snippets of our own ramblings. Let the beauty of the season so far wash over you...

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Jil Sander

For AW11, Raf Simons took inspiration from the minimal roots of Jil Sander menswear but managed to make its trademarks of old his own. With a keen focus on fabric and texture, Simons cut shoulders sharply, left jackets voluminous and integrated feminine effortlessly.

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Burberry

Christopher Bailey used this show to celebrate diversity of outerwear and the great heritage Burberry has in outfitting us against the elements. It was a celebration of variety. Whichever style or cut you reach for during the autumn winter months, it was showcased here. Trench, duffel and pea coats, double and single breasted, slim or over sized, leather, fur, wool and down materials were all paraded down the catwalk. At times it was muddled but there were moments of perfection amongst the dizzying onslaught of jackets.

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Missoni

Missoni used a plethora of wools and technological advancements to create layer upon layer of texture rich knitwear that had all of the comfort without any of the bulk that you'd expect. This was a collection full of looks that all of us crave during those depressing months.

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Marni

Nonchalent elegance. Slouchy utilitarianism and laid back layering of contrasting fabrics in earthy hues. It is nigh on impossible to dislike this collection, surely? My wardrobe certainly needs an healthy injection of Marni AW11.

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Dries Van Noten

Van Noten looked to classic garments of evening dress and experimented with layering and finishes before mixing casual elements to create a collection that pushed menswear quietly forward. The stylish moments of Bowie and Cocteau were remembered to create a collection that oozed glamour and elegance yet still remained masculine.

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Woolrich Woolen Mills

Here, Mark McNairy takes the creative helm of goodship Woolrich for the first time and whilst remaining true to the brand's obvious rugged aesthetic confidently steers it towards preppy tailoring. McNairy has managed to stamp his own direction on the label and compliment the well received legacy of Daiki Suzuki at the same time. Well played.

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Raf Simons

 

Simons once again flexed his maximal muscles as he paraded a variety of shapes, vivid hues and contrasting textures down the catwalk. He possesses an unparalleled ability to reimagine age old garments through his innovative use of fabric and colour. For AW11, Duffle coats were one of the cornerstones of the collection. Here they were contrasted with black PVC trousers and worn over latex tops. Despite an air of uncertainty with the news that Simons has terminated his relationship with his business partners in Italy, one thing is clear, the future of menswear is very much in the capable hands of Raf Simons.

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E. Tautz Illustrated

E. Tautz' salon style presentation was one of the real highlights of London Fashion Week. The Navy Board Rooms were the perfect setting for this particular Savile Row favourite: a highly intimate, personal service whereby Patrick Grant introduced each look in the type of wonderfully engaging manner that few can. So, when we were approached by a talented illustrator, Joseph Turvey, who shared our enthusiasm for the award winning designer's collection, we could not resist reliving those  special September Menswear Day moments with him.

For SS11 the House of Tautz continued to present a modern and elegant aesthetic all the while fondly glancing back in time to a particularly dapper moment of men's dress. Grant is, justifiably, extremely proud about Tautz' heritage and allows it to colour what the House does today. The past is very much there to guide what he does in the present. However, he does not go in for excessive nostalgia and always provides a perfectly cut balance. This season, he opted to cut their cloth with a modish sharpness in crisp wool fresco's, hopsacks in wool and silk, a selection of crisp linens and stiff drills. Mixed with the usual British sporstwear, there were hints of Brighton Rock with the clipped drainpipes, full collared button downs, pin tight knots and Harrington coats. All the while reminding us of the great British seaside.

Here, Turvey's illustrations breathe fresh life in to favourite looks and give us reason to be further excited for the coming season...

 

All illustrations by Joseph Turvey

Style Stalking...Ca

It has been far too long since we've lurked in the shadows to partake in one of our favourite past times, style stalking. The reason for the delay was finding a subject that could match our previous subject, Imelda Matt. After a few months of fruitless voyeurism we finally stumbled across an old favourite who has thankfully resurfaced on the blogosphere. Ca's previous blog, The Cablog, was a constant source of inspiration and it was a sad day when he decided to pause blogging. A number of months later and Ca has returned and we are pleased to declare that he lost none of his style. Ca is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is a man who knows how to balance vintage, high street and labels in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. We could wax lyrical about his style but that would only delay you from the real treat of the below visuals. Without further ado, here's the man himself introducing his diary...

"I suppose the series below is representative of my style. At least for winter here in Norway at the moment. I have always been more of an autumn/winter person in terms of clothes and fashion. The crisp cold weather makes it ideal to layer favourite pieces and bundle up. Some may find it challenging during the cold season to stay both warm and stylish, but I thing it's quite amusing. As long as you have the basics, especially quality woolen pieces, in place then I believe you can always look well put together...

All photos by my good friend Sirin Winge"

When the six day diary dropped in to our inbox our week was made. No doubt his style diary will brighten up your week too...

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Day One

A simple and casual outfit, this is how I typically look at home or school. I enjoy focusing on collar/lapel details and love to collect pins and brooches from flea markets and vintage shops. Such an easy way to add a bit of fun. These ones, however, are from a regular high street store. The moment I saw them this summer I completely fell and had to have them. Such a sucker for the nautical theme.

The jumper is from H&M, the shirt is from Zara and pins are from Accessorize, the trousers are by These Glory Days, the glasses are from Burberry and the shoes are by Massimo Dutti.

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Day Two

Another simple outfit for a regular day running errands around town. This jacket is one of my vintage gems which I waited almost three months before purchase. Warm and with the perfect fit, it's such a great piece to throw on while rushing out and about.

The hat is from H&M, the scarf is by Burberry, the jacket is a vintage Wrangler, the shirt is secondhand, the jeans are by Monkee Genes, the bag is secondhand as well and the shoes are by Vagabond.

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Day Three

Ok, so I study library science and work at an eyewear store. Sometimes I get carried away. So much for breaking down the stereotypical view on nerdy almost corporate way of dressing. But I like it and this is how I look most of the time. I try to believe that this soft floral shirt makes the look less "dusty". Anyway, the shirt reminds me of a watercolour painting and I got it dirt cheap at a secondhand store. Win win situation. If you're wondering, I am clinging onto the precious and latest issue of Monocle, one of the few magazines I actually buy.

The cardigan is from Brunns Bazaar, the shirt is secondhand, the trousers and bag are both from Zara while the bag is by Bertoni.

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Day Four

Me at my most dandy. I enjoy wearing bow ties, especially during festive Christmas season. The small leather bag around my neck is the latest obsession. Very practical to keep keys and wallet safe in place. And the coat is Lanvin for H&M, this year's winter coat purchase. The deep blue colour is wonderful. I like the long lean look and how the length makes it completely reasonable for me to make swooshing sounds while wearing it around.

The coat is from the Lanvin for H&M range, the jumper is from Gap, trousers are by Topman, the hat is from Dressman, the bowtie is H&M, the bag is from Monkee and the suspenders and shoes are both secondhand.

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Day Five

Beside collar decoration I have become fond of elbow details. This woolen/angora/cashmere mix jumper is warm, cosy and perfect for winter. Also, the colour scheme keeps the elbow patches subtle and barely noticeable. My infamous binocular bag is making an appearance here as well.

The coat is from Victor & Rolf for H&M, jumper by These Glory Days, as you can probably tell the shirt is from Burberry, trousers are by Velour, shoes from Zara and the bag is secondhand.

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Day Six

Another piece of outerwear I've found secondhand and altered at my seamstress. I like to switch between several coats during winter to keep things interesting. I find brown softer and easier to create less strict winter looks than classic black and grey.

In case you're wondering, the answer is no. I am not doing publicity for the label These Glory Days. At least not paid publicity that I know of. I have been following the label's design for a while and truly enjoy it's casual style, small sizes, simple details and finally the reasonable price level. This winter I went all out and got hold of several pieces from the autumn/winter collection. Whatever the hype, the Swedes know fashion. And as a Norwegian citizen I am making a patriotic statement for Scandinavian design. Yeah.

Final note: I am having breakfast (cranberry scones) while doing Christmas shopping here. Do forgive the silly expression.

The coat is secondhand, the hat and shirt are both from These Glory Days, the jeans are Monkee Genes and the shoes are from Zara.

All photos by Sirin Winge.
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